Overlining

Overlining is usually done at the centre of the upper lip, around the cupid’s bow, and at the centre of the lower lip, where a small extension changes the shape most. The liner is then filled in with lipstick so the new edge blends with the colour.

The effect depends on keeping the extension small and the lip liner close to the lipstick or natural lip colour. A liner much deeper than the lipstick makes the drawn edge visible, and an edge far beyond the natural line can look obvious up close. Matte and set formulas hold an overlined edge best, since they stay where they are placed, and a touch of gloss on the centre of the lips adds to the fuller look by catching the light.

Overlining is deliberate and has a defined edge, unlike feathering, where colour spreads past the lip line by accident. A related technique is ombré lips, which uses a deeper liner at the edges to add depth.